2018 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes

Van Steenderen Wines

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2018 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes

93

NA

2023 - 2045

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes offers up aromas of orange oil, waxy citrus rind, fresh pear and white flowers, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping palate that's supple and succulent, underpinned by lively acids and concluding with chalky grip. As usual, this was the first parcel Boillot harvested in 2018.

Guillaume Boillot began his harvest in Volnay on August 27, finishing up two weeks later, around September 10, in the Côte de Nuits. This is once again an exemplary portfolio of wines, all of which come warmly recommended, but there have been a couple of changes that merit notice. In 2018, Boillot told me that he continued his practice of fermenting his red wines in barrel but that he shortened the time of maceration to avoid picking up too much oak-derived sucrosity. And certainly, this year's collection of red wines shows a more completely integrated framing of new oak than last year's. Indeed, the reds are so good that it's appropriate to remember that, until Boillot's father reoriented the estate toward white wine, this was a domaine best known for its reds. Mention of white wine is the cue to mention another development—that Boillot used a vertical press for all his whites in 2018. He's very happy with the result, and I agree that these 2018 whites possess impressive chalky structuring extract that sets them apart in a vintage that can be somewhat facile. Boillot added that in 2018 he used a touch less new wood and fewer barrels from François Frères, which—reviewing my notes—does seem to have made for a range of white wines less marked by the toasty, nutty signatures that were once quite prominent at this address.

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